Next morning (Monday) I got started late and didn’t really do much for the day, a walk, some Jacuzzi and a lot of work on my computer catching up on banking, work and some overdue emails.
Tuesday and set off towards Aix-en-Provence. On the way I stopped in Grasse and had a look around and then to Mougin which together with Paul de Vence, is one of my favourite little towns in this part.
It is always interesting when you book a holiday apartment for a week as, unlike a hotel you can’t simply leave if it doesn’t suit. But I have to say this place is superb. It is everything that it was advertised to be and then some. A beautiful loft as Julie the host calls it but it is more like a garage converted into a two level apartment with living room and well fitted kitchen downstairs and a loft bedroom and bathroom upstairs. It ticks the two boxes of air-conditioning (the temp is 35+ degrees) and internet which wasn’t so important as I bought my own. Anyone visiting these parts and looking for such accommodation would be recommended to look at
http://www.provence.guideweb.com/location/loft52/indexa.html.
While on that note if you are looking for a week’s accommodation anywhere in the world try this website: http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/ I have had three good experiences through them.
Oh and the third box – a Nespresso Coffee Machine.
Wednesday morning and I head into Aix and spend much of the day simply walking up and down all the streets in the historical centre. Now I am an intrepid shopper and a person who, if there was a world shopping tour and a world museum tour would sign up for the former. But the internet has sort of spoiled that as there is almost nothing I can’t buy 50% cheaper on the internet so, apart from one sweater I bought at an outlet centre, I have bought almost nothing this trip – most unusual and very frustrating.
Back to the Gite for a rest and a 1:45 drive to Moustiere-St-Marie for dinner with Victor and Carol. The restaurant Las Bastide de Moustiers (http://www.bastide-moustiers.com) is located in a lovely hotel with superb gardens and olive trees. Seated on the balcony we had excellent if not slightly unusual meal. There was no a la carte simply two degustation menus to choose from. Luckily both were quite agreeable and together with the excellent service it was a special evening. Apart from the 1:30 minute drive back half of which was along narrow winding and unlit roads. Anyway survived that one.
Next day I got late start and headed for the one hour drive to Toulon which I would describe as a very ordinary city whose only redeeming feature was its location on the Mediterranean Sea. I gave it a chance by catching the tourist train around but…..
Off to the lovely fishing town of Cassis where I have been twice before. This town is simply what you imagine a fishing village to be plus a large marina of boats. A bit touristy but a nice part of the world to spend a few hours.
Then off to that Arabic Village called Marseilles. I had driven through Marseilles a couple of years ago and noted that it had been improved from when I was last here in 2003 with much of the waterfront being upgraded. Pity that is all they have done to the place. It is dirty, rubbish along every street and men simply sitting around studying everybody who walks past. The only language I heard spoken was Arabic and even the street vendors in the produce markets imploring you to buy their goods do so in Arabic. Couldn’t leave quick enough.
That night I cook dinner – lobster bisque from a carton and one I would be delighted to be served in any restaurant. I did add some crab meat and prawns and, together with my salad – superbe!
Next morning I take it very slow and easy and don’t leave ‘home’ till after lunch and even then just walk around for three hours as some therapeutic exercise more than anything else.
The temperatures have been between 30 and 35 but the Mistral has been quite blowy. The mistral is a strong, cold and usually dry wind coming from the north or northwest, which accelerates when it passes through the valleys of the Rhone and the Durance Rivers to the coast of the Mediterranean. The mistral is usually accompanied by clear and fresh weather, and it plays an important role in creating the climate of Provence. It can reach speeds of more than ninety kilometers an hour, particularly in the Rhone Valley. Its average speed during the day can reach about fifty kilometers an hour, calming noticeably at night. It sometimes lasts only one or two days, frequently lasts several days, and sometimes lasts more than a week.
I get back home and my host has set up the backyard for her 67 guests for this evening’s ‘festival’ as she calls it. I wish her good luck and she asks “am I not coming?’ I wasn’t planning to but she has seated me with her parents and clearly expected me to be there. So I will oblige.
As I write this the caterers are outside my door in the driveway preparing the Paella with mussels and all for this evening and darn if it doesn’t smell fantastic.
Off to buy a bottle of wine as a gift bet they don’t have any Australian.
The party kicks off at 20:30 with most people coming close to 21:00. All stand around till 23:00 with drinks and appetizers served. The party was for my host and her friends as well as her parents and their friends. Everybody was very warm and welcoming and were interested in me and my travels and Australia etc.
A young 33 year old woman came up to me and said I will talk to you because I know the French being French are probably ignoring you, which actually and perhaps surprisingly was not the case.
Everybody sat down and ate at 23:00 when the Paella was served followed by cheese and cake. I excused myself at 01:00 with the music playing loudly and the party in full swing. In Australia the Police would have been called but no thought of that here.
Anyway enough for now.
Love to all
D
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