After a quick freshen up we drive to the ‘centre historico’ which we find we could have more conveniently walked to. We spent around two hours walking through the cobble-stoned streets with their lovely shops.
Clearly the shops are catering to more wealthy people than many of the other placed we have been to but they aren't overstated and not outrageously expensive. Robert and Kathy garner some gifts for the grandchildren which convinces me that when my time comes I will pre-purchase the gifts rather than schlepping them all back from overseas!!!
We retrace our steps to a restaurant (Officina del gusto) which I found on Tripadviser. Wearing our summer clothes we decide to sit outside despite falling temperatures and a cool breeze, Between seating and leaving, the temperature seems to drop from 22 to around 14 degrees. The weather on the entire trip has been sensational - warm sunny and almost no need to wear anything long sleeve, so this was a bit of shock.
We enjoyed a fantastic seafood antipasto degustation, tuna tartar, one giant oyster, cuttlefish ragout and two other small portions. For mains we have a dish I have only ever had before in Turkey, a salt encrusted baked whole fish which was superb. You will be proud - no dessert (see below), but a great great meal.
Back to the hotel for a good night's sleep.
Next morning we agree to a latish start (09:30) and head up to Palau where we arrive just in time to board the car ferry to La Maddalena. This is a mixture of resort area and flora/fauna protection area. The resorts are sympathetically inset into the hillsides and it seems that none of them are actually located on the beach proper but we see a lot of people at the various small beaches which we come across. We opt not to visit "another" Garibaldi museum where he is in fact buried – ‘museumed’ out!!!
Lunch in the town and a car ferry back to the mainland and a few hours rest. We meet late for dinner driving up to Porto Cervo where we discover the expensive part of town. We settle on a restaurant il Pescatore and have an excellent seafood meal but continue to discover that desserts in Sardinia simply aren't good. Back along the long and winding road late at night, no joy and sleep before our last full day relaxing in Sardinia.
Next morning and we decide to drive back to Porto Cervo to get a better daytime view of what turns out to be the home of the rich and famous. We arrive at the Marina where we decide that any friends with boats have matchbox sized boats with some being 50 metres and more.
We breakfast at a cafe where we meet Martina who speaks excellent English being a student. She talks with an Irish lilt as her teacher is Irish. Martina is 22 and works 4 months of the year at Costa Smeralda and 8 months of the year at the ski resorts close to her native Torino. She wears a wedding ring and when Kathy asks if she is married she laughs and says "Oh no! When my mother got divorced she was about to flush it down the toilet when I rescued it!!" She shares a one bedroom apartment with seven others and pays $A2,800 per month - HER SHARE! Three sleep in the bedroom, three in the lounge room and two on the kitchen floor. A very sweet girl who gets most excited when I explain the working holiday visa plan for Australia to her.Martina explains that it is not possible to buy coffee with fresh milk in Italy and that only UHT milk is available. Now I have 8 days without an itinerary and was thinking Turin and Lake Como but this could be a dealbreaker!!!
We drive down to Porto Rotondo where we go to the sister restaurant Jaguar which is the first place we had found sat directly on the beach and which, by the way is lined with Jaguar cars. A few Sprumantes (freshly squeezed orange juices) and a purchase from one of the Black African beach vendors and we move on to our last stop Golfo Aranci where we sit on the beach and enjoy a late lunch before we go back to the hotel for an afternoon nap.
Up to Olbia Historica for a walk and dinner. We stumble past what seems like a bar and we stick our head in to see if a meal is possible and the owner/chef almost implores us to stay in what seems to be a bar.
He makes us a very nice meal including some Porchetta (Pork) which was amazingly good and a cheese plate. Up to the main drag for a banana and Nutella crepe which I had been promising myself for three days and
home to bed.
Next morning we drive randomly to a beach with a small hut serving coffees and light snacks and sit in the beautiful sun watching a few people on the nearby sand. The owner tells us he sells an umbrella and chair for $A16 a day which he assures us is cheap when others at more luxurious places sell them for $A28-$A55. In August whern the temperatures are above 35 degrees the beach is 'completo" and he works just
three months of the year and holidays for the rest.
Back to the hotel and a final pack before heading to London and the end of my three weeks in Sicily/Sardinia. Technology is great as I have a three way skype call with Justin/Lindy (including video) and Danielle/Dave who are in the car. Pleased that all, except the weather, is great with them.
Keep well
XD
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